The Most Effective, Science-Backed Method for Washing Hair

—Photo-Illustration by Chloe Dowling for TIME (Source Image: Dmytro Buianskyi—Getty Images)

(SeaPRwire) –   Washing your hair is a vital part of any personal care regimen. However, since everyone’s hair differs, there isn’t a universal rule for how often to wash it. Some individuals shampoo and condition daily, while others prefer to cleanse their hair a few times a week. Is one approach more effective than the other?

Dr. Kseniya Kobets, director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care in Elmsford, New York, states that healthy hair—characterized by well-hydrated strands that resist breakage—”is truly a reflection of both the scalp environment and the hair shaft integrity.” Kobets explains that your scalp should not be itchy, red, flaky, excessively oily, or feel dry or painful. She often tells patients: “if your scalp is calm and balanced, your hair is much more likely to behave.”

Here’s what you should know about the optimal way to wash your hair, including the significance of scalp health, appropriate shampooing frequency, and other useful tips.

How frequently should you wash your hair?

Dr. Carolyn Goh, a dermatologist at UCLA Health specializing in hair loss and scalp disorders, notes that “the ideal interval between hair washing actually has to do with your scalp more than your hair.” She adds, “The reason to go longer between hair washings has to do with the hair and how dry it can get from frequent washings.”

Calgary-based cosmetic dermatologist Dr. Danny Guo explains that the oils from your scalp “act as a natural moisturizer, keeping your hair and scalp from getting overly dry.” However, some individuals produce more oil than others, and excess oil can make hair greasy and sometimes lead to scalp irritation and inflammation.

Kobets states that washing your hair removes oil, dead skin cells, hair products, and dirt—all of which can accumulate on your scalp—and prevents yeast overgrowth, which can cause dandruff.

The American Academy of Dermatology advises washing your hair based on “how often it gets dirty or oily.” Kobets adds that for most people, this typically means every two to four days, but it could be daily for those with oily scalps or every week or two for individuals with dry or curly hair.

Goh further explains that oil may more easily travel down straight hair strands, but this might not occur with curly hair, sometimes making it drier and more prone to breakage.

Guo suggests, “For the average person, washing your hair two to three times per week is ideal.” Goh warns that overwashing your hair can cause it to become dry, brittle, or easily broken. Kobets adds that your scalp might also feel tight, itchy, or irritated.

Conversely, Guo says that if you don’t wash your hair often enough, it will likely appear and feel greasy, might develop an unpleasant odor, and your scalp could become flaky and itchy.

Goh advises, “If you feel like you need to use some dry shampoo to soak up the oils on your hair, you probably need to just wash in the shower with actual shampoo.”

What kind of shampoo and conditioner should you use?

Kobets clarifies that this also depends on “what your scalp is telling you,” not solely on hair type.

Guo recommends “clarifying” shampoos for oily hair and scalps, while hydrating, gentle shampoos containing moisturizers like glycerin or ceramides are better for dry scalps. Kobets suggests choosing a dandruff shampoo with ketoconazole, zinc pyrithione, or selenium sulfide if you are prone to the scalp condition. Goh adds that sulfate-free shampoos, which tend to be gentler and don’t strip away oils, work well for curlier or drier hair.

Guo recommends fragrance-free shampoos for individuals with sensitive skin, as these products are less likely to cause irritation. Kobets notes that shampoos containing silicones like dimethicone (often marketed as “anti-frizz” or “pro-shine”) or heavy oils or butters can contribute to buildup for people prone to folliculitis, which is hair follicle inflammation. She also adds that high-sulfate products can be “too stripping” if used frequently.

Kobets clarifies, “It’s not that these ingredients are universally ‘bad.’” She emphasizes, “It’s about matching the formula to your scalp tolerance.”

Goh states that most people benefit from using conditioner after shampooing. She explains that it can help restore some of the natural oils that were removed during washing. Guo adds that it can also help improve the hair’s texture and appearance while detangling it.

The American Academy of Dermatology recommends applying conditioner only to the ends of your hair if it’s fine or straight, and to the entire length for those with curly or dry hair.

Tips for healthy hair washing

Once you’ve identified your ideal shampoo and conditioner and established a suitable hair-washing frequency, here are some additional expert tips to maintain the healthiest possible hair:

Avoid excessive shampoo

Kobets notes that people tend to use too much. She suggests using approximately a quarter-sized amount, which is usually sufficient to wash the scalp and hair roots.

Focus on the scalp

Kobets advises applying shampoo to the hair’s roots, gently massaging it into the scalp, and “let the lather cleanse the lengths as it rinses.” Then, thoroughly rinse out the shampoo. She adds that over-scrubbing can irritate the scalp and worsen conditions like eczema or dandruff.

Condition the ends

Goh explains that the amount of conditioner you use depends on your hair volume. She suggests applying conditioner to the hair ends and shaft, but not the scalp unless it is particularly dry. Rinse it out thoroughly.

Use lukewarm water

Guo states that lukewarm water is best for both skin and hair. Hot water can irritate the scalp by stripping oils and causing dryness.

Monitor your scalp

Goh suggests seeing a dermatologist if you notice persistent rashes, pimples, redness, or itching.

Guo adds that hair conditions can sometimes manifest as scalp problems. He suggests consulting a dermatologist if you experience bald patches or sudden or worsening hair shedding.

Kobets explains that a dermatologist will examine your scalp and may conduct blood tests to check your thyroid, iron, and vitamin D levels, or perform a biopsy to test any red or flaky patches of skin.

Overall, she concludes that healthy hair relies on a healthy scalp. Kobets emphasizes, “The biggest misconception is that it’s about how often you wash, when in reality, it’s about whether your routine and ingredients match your scalp and hair biology.”

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